GET STARTED GUIDE FOR WOOD

INSTALLATION:

As with any vented hearth product, please rely on the expertise of a hearth professional for installation. All installations must be done in accordance with the owner’s manual and local building codes. For installation requirements not specially addressed in the owner’s manual or by the local codes, refer to NFPA 211.

BREAK-IN FIRES:

A series of three break-in fires are required. The first is to raise the surface temperature of the stove to 200 degrees. Another is to raise the surface temperature to 300 degrees. And yet another one to raise the surface temperature to 400 degrees. A stovetop thermometer is required for this procedure and the stove should be allowed to cool to room temperature between fires. Note: Use less wood. You can always add more.

STARTING A FIRE:

To start a fire you NEED three things: heat, fuel and air. A match or lighter provides the heat. For the fuel, you should use plenty of fire starters, such as fat wood, 1” by 1” dry kindling or crumpled newspaper. Add wood starting with small splits, gradually building to larger pieces of wood as a bed builds. The force in the chimney called draft supplies the air. Opening the draft control fully will allow the maximum amount of primary air to be drawn into the appliance by the draft, which is supplied by the chimney. Note: never open the ash pan door to start a fire. You will damage your stove. If additional start up air is required slightly open a load door during initial startup. Some chimney systems have little or no draft when static (no fire in the appliance) Even worse, some chimney systems have a reverse draft when static. Appliances vented into chimney systems with inadequate draft or reverse draft will be difficult to start and may emit smoke into the building. Good fire starting technique and a basic understanding of house pressurization and its effect on chimney system is required when inadequate or reverse draft is present. Not all negative pressure situations are easily corrected. For information please visit: http://www.woodheat.org

 a non profit and very informative website.

PAINT CURING:

On initial firings, the exterior of the stove will smoke. This is normal and will happen with greater intensity on a painted stove. It will subside after the first few fires. You may have to open a door or window near the stove.

GLASS:

The glass on your stove will become dirty on the first few fires. It will also become dirty if burning wet wood, under slow burn, and if adequate draft is not available. Your hearth retailer can provide you with glass cleaner that will not harm your stove glass.

DRAFT:

Draft is a force that exists in a properly designed and functioning chimney system. It pulls air into the combustion chamber and expels smoke and combustion gases for the appliance. The ability for draft to exist depends on many factors: chimney location and height, elbows, horizontal runs, flue size, house construction, house pressurization as well as atmospheric and environmental conditions.

WOOD:

Wood is the fuel for your stove. Generally, dry hard wood that is properly sized will allow you to achieve desired burn time and heat output. Soft Wood is less dense than hard wood and has fewer BTU’s per volume.

Wood that is cut too short will not fill the firebox. Green wood has high water content and water does not burn!

ACCESSORIES:

Depending on your installation, certain accessories may be required such as a heat shield or outside air kit. All ducting must be non-combustible and clearances to combustible materials must be maintained. There are other accessories you nay find indispensable such as a stove top thermometer, hearth gloves, a tool set, a double bottom ash bucket, a stove top steamer, and a wood rack.

MAINTANENCE:

Yearly maintenance should be preformed on your wood burning system. Inspect and clean your chimney and connector pipe. Inspect door gaskets or proper seal. Visually inspect the interior of the firebox. A certified hearth professional is qualified to perform these inspections.